The barry m multitude lip and cheek pen lipstick emphasises your lips beautifully and highlights day and evening makeup perfectly.
Uploaded by: bethanycaddy on
Ingredients overview
Tridecyl Trimellitate, Polyisobutene, Ceresin, Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyethylene, Microcrystalline Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77499), Red 6 Lake (Ci 15850), Red 28 Lake (Ci 45410), Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090), Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide
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Highlights
#alcohol-free #fragrance & essentialoil-free
Alcohol Free
Fragrance and Essential Oil Free
Abrasive/scrub: Tin Oxide
Colorant: Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77499), Red 6 Lake (Ci 15850), Red 28 Lake (Ci 45410), Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090), Tin Oxide
Emollient: Tridecyl Trimellitate, Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Isononyl Isononanoate
Preservative: Phenoxyethanol
Solvent: Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil)
Viscosity controlling: Polyisobutene, Ceresin, Polyethylene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide
Skim through
| Ingredient name | what-it-does | irr., com. | ID-Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tridecyl Trimellitate | emollient | ||
| Polyisobutene | viscosity controlling | ||
| Ceresin | viscosity controlling | 0, 0 | |
| Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) | emollient, solvent | 0, 0-2 | |
| Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | emollient | 0, 0-2 | goodie |
| Isononyl Isononanoate | emollient | ||
| Polyethylene | viscosity controlling | ||
| Microcrystalline Wax | viscosity controlling | ||
| Phenoxyethanol | preservative | ||
| Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) | colorant | 0, 0 | |
| Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77499) | colorant | 0, 0 | |
| Red 6 Lake (Ci 15850) | colorant | 0, 1 | |
| Red 28 Lake (Ci 45410) | colorant | 0, 2 | |
| Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090) | colorant | ||
| Synthetic Fluorphlogopite | viscosity controlling | ||
| Tin Oxide | colorant, abrasive/scrub, viscosity controlling |
Barry M Multitude Lip And Cheek Pen
Ingredients explainedTridecyl Trimellitate
What-it-does: emollient
Aviscous, thick liquid emollient that gives lubricityand cushion at low use levels. It's great for night creams, eye area products, and skin treatment products due to the substantive film forming ability.
Polyisobutene
What-it-does: viscosity controlling
A polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that's used as a gloss improver for lipsticks and lipglosses. Its stickiness also helps lip products to stay on longer.
Combined with polyacrylate-13 and polysorbate 20, it forms a very effective tickener-emulsifier trio.
Ceresin
What-it-does: viscosity controlling, emulsion stabilising | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0
A hydrocarbon waxproduced by the purification of another hydrocarbon wax, ozokerite. Similar to ozokerite, it is mostly used in stick type products to keep them nice and solid.
Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil)
Also-called: Mineral Oil | What-it-does: emollient, solvent | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0-2
The famous or maybe rather infamous mineral oil. The clear oily liquid that is the "cheap by-product" of refining crude oil and the one that gets a lot of heat for its poor provenance. It is a very controversial ingredient with pros and cons and plenty of mythsaround it. So let us see them:
The pros of mineral oil
Trust us, if something is used for more than 100 years in cosmeticproducts, it hasadvantages. Chemically speaking, cosmetic grade mineral oil is a complex mixture ofhighly refined saturated hydrocarbons with C15-50 chain length.It is not merely a "by-product" but rather a specifically isolated part of petroleum that is very pure and inert.
It is a great emollient and moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity.Occlusivity is one of the basic mechanisms of how moisturizers work and it means that mineral oilsits on top of the skin and hinders so-called trans-epidermal water loss, i.e water evaporating out of your skin. When compared to heavy-duty plant oil, extra virgin coconut oil, the two of them were equally efficient and safe as moisturizers in treating xerosis, a skin condition connected to very dry skin.
The other thing that mineral oil is really good at is being non-irritating to the skin. The chemical composition of plant oils is more complex with many more possible allergens or irritatingcomponents, while mineral oil is simple, pureand sensitivity to it is extremely rare.If you check out the classic French pharmacy brands and their moisturizers for the most sensitive, allergy prone skin, they usually containmineral oil. This is no coincidence.
The cons of mineral oil
The pros of mineral oilcan be interpreted as cons if we look at them from another perspective. Not penetrating the skin but mostly just sitting on top of it and not containing biologically active components, like nice fatty acids and vitamins meanthat mineral oil does not "nourish" the skin in the way plant oils do. Mineral oil doesnot give the skin any extra goodness, it is simply a non-irritating moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity.
The myths around mineral oil
Badmouthing mineral oil is a favorite sport of many, it is a cheap material and being connected to petrolatum makes it fairly easy to demonize.
While it is true that industrial grade mineral oil contains carcinogenic components (so-calledpolycyclic compounds), these are completely removed from cosmetic and food grade mineral oil and there is no scientific data showing that the pure, cosmetic grade version is carcinogenic.
What is more, in terms of the general health effects of mineral oils used in cosmetics, a 2017study reviewed the data on their skin penetration and concluded that "the cosmetic use of mineral oils and waxes does not present a risk to consumers due to a lack of systemic exposure."
Another super common myth surrounding mineral oil is that it is comedogenic. A 2005 study titled"Is mineral oil comedogenic?" examined this very question and guess what happened? The study concluded that "based on the animal and human data reported, along with the AAD recommendation, it would appear reasonable to conclude that mineral oil is noncomedogenic in humans."
Overall, we feel that the scaremongering around mineral oil is not justified. For dry and super-sensitive skin types it is a great option. However, if you do not like its origin or its heavy feeling or anything else about it, avoiding it has never been easier. Mineral oil has such a bad reputation nowadays that cosmetic companies hardly dare to use it anymore.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil - goodie
Also-called: Jojoba Oil | What-it-does: emollient | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0-2
Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil).
At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but awax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy).
So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides:one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are alltriglycerides. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (bebroken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it.
Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give uspeople environmental protection.
So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. Like crazy stable. Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does notbudge. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years.
Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin.
Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action:on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles thendiffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple.
On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and forma protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that.
Isononyl Isononanoate
What-it-does: emollient
An emollient ester with a rich and creamy but non-greasy skin feel. It makes skin supple and protects dry skin.
Polyethylene
What-it-does: viscosity controlling
Polyethylene is the most common plastic in the world. It is a super versatile polymer (molecule from repeated subunits) and when it comes to cosmetics, it is often referred to as microbeads. Well,it used to be referred to as microbeads, as it wasbanned in 2015 in the "Microbead-Free Waters Act" due to the small plastic spheres accumulating in the waters and looking like food to fish. Well done by Obama.
But being versatile means that polyethylene does not only come as scrub particles but also as a white wax. In its wax-form, it is still well, alive and pretty popular. It thickens up water-free formulas, increases hardness and raises the meltingpoint ofemulsions and water-less balms. It is particularly common in cleansing balms and stick-type makeup products due to its ability to add body, hardness and slip to these formulas.
Microcrystalline Wax
What-it-does: viscosity controlling, emulsion stabilising
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Phenoxyethanol
What-it-does: preservative
It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben.
It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic.
Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10).
It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol.
Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)
Also-called: Titanium Dioxide/Ci 77891;Ci 77891 | What-it-does: colorant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0
Ci 77891 is the color code of titaniumdioxide.It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility.
Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77499)
Also-called: Ci 77491/77492/77499 | What-it-does: colorant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0
A bit of a sloppy ingredient name as it covers not one butthree pigments: red, yellow and black iron oxide.
The triois invaluable for "skin-colored" makeup products (think your foundation and pressed powder) as blendingthese three shades carefully can produce almost any shade of natural-looking flesh tones.
Red 6 Lake (Ci 15850)
Also-called: Red 6, Red 7;Ci 15850 | What-it-does: colorant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Red 28 Lake (Ci 45410)
Also-called: Red 28, Red 27, Red 27 Lake, Red 28 Lake, Acid Red 92 Phloxine;Ci 45410 | What-it-does: colorant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 2
A cosmetic colorant used as a reddish pigment.
Some version of it is a pH-sensitive dye that enables a colorless lip balm to turn red/pink upon application.
Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090)
Also-called: Blue 1;Ci 42090 | What-it-does: colorant
CI 42090 or Blue 1 is a super common synthetic colorant in beauty & food. Used alone, it adds a brilliant smurf-like blue color, combined with Tartrazine, it gives the fifty shades of green.
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Also-called: Synthetic Mica | What-it-does: viscosity controlling
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is the synthetic version of the super commonly used mineral, Mica. The advantage of being synthetic is that it has amore consistent quality, fewer impurities and an even lower heavy metal content than Mica (not that Mica's heavy metal content is high). It is also more transparent and has improved light reflection.
The two main use cases forSynthetic Fluorphlogopite is being used neat as a superior "filler" orskin tone enhancer or it can also serve as a base for multi-layered, composite pigments such as pearl effect pigments where it is coated with one or more layers of metal oxide, most commonly titanium dioxide.
Tin Oxide
Also-called: CI 77861, Tin Dioxide | What-it-does: colorant, abrasive/scrub, viscosity controlling
Far from the tin cans you find in the supermarket, Tin Oxide is mostly used when dealing with so-called effect pigments, tricky composite pigments that can do color travel (change color depending on the viewingangle) or give multiple color effect.
It's often found alongside Mica (as a base material) and Titanium Dioxide (as a coating) to give a glossy, pearlescent effect. Together, they make up a trademarked technologycalled RonaFlairBlanace from the German manufacturer Merck. According to their info, this combination can balance out undesirable tones in the skin, making it a popular choice for brightening products and highlighters.
Other than that, CosIng (the official EU INCI database) lists its uses asbeing a bulking agent (to increase the volume of products), as well as a physical exfoliant or an opacifying agent, but being part of composite effect pigments is a much more common use case.
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Aviscous, thick liquid emollient that gives lubricityand cushion at low use levels. [more] A polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that's used as a gloss improver for lipsticks and lipglosses. Combined with polyacrylate-13 and polysorbate 20, it forms a very effective tickener-emulsifier trio. [more] A hydrocarbon waxproduced by the purification of another hydrocarbon wax, ozokerite. Similar to ozokerite, it is mostly used in stick type products to keep them nice and solid. [more] A clear, oily liquid that comes from refining crude oil. Even though it is a highly controversial ingredient, the scientific consensus is that it is a safe, non-irritating and effective emollient and moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity. [more] Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. [more] An emollient ester with a rich and creamy but non-greasy skin feel. [more] The common plastic molecule that is used as a white wax to give hardness and slip to the formulas. It used to be used as microbeads as well but was banned in 2015 due to environmental reasons. [more] Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. [more] Titanium dioxide as a colorant. It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility. A mix of red, yellow and black iron oxide. [more] A cosmetic colorant used as a reddish pigment.Some version of it is a pH-sensitive dye that enables a colorless lip balm to turn red/pink upon application. [more] Synthetic colorant with smurf-like blue color. [more] Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is the synthetic version of the super commonly used mineral, Mica. The advantage of being synthetic is that it has amore consistent quality, fewer impurities and an even lower heavy metal content than Mica (not that Mica's heavy metal content is high). [more] Far from the tin cans you find in the supermarket, Tin Oxide is mostly used when dealing with so-called effect pigments, tricky composite pigments that can do color travel (change color depending on the viewingangle) or give multiple color effect.It's often found alongside Mica (as a base material) and Titanium Dioxide (as a coating) to give a glossy, pearlescent effect. [more] what‑it‑does emollient what‑it‑does viscosity controlling what‑it‑does viscosity controlling irritancy,com. 0, 0 what‑it‑does emollient | solvent irritancy,com. 0, 0-2 what‑it‑does emollient irritancy,com. 0, 0-2 what‑it‑does emollient what‑it‑does viscosity controlling what‑it‑does viscosity controlling what‑it‑does preservative what‑it‑does colorant irritancy,com. 0, 0 what‑it‑does colorant irritancy,com. 0, 0 what‑it‑does colorant irritancy,com. 0, 1 what‑it‑does colorant irritancy,com. 0, 2 what‑it‑does colorant what‑it‑does viscosity controlling what‑it‑does colorant | abrasive/scrub | viscosity controlling
